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ARTS & CRAFTS of North-East


Annotated Bibliography for Textiles

 

1. Roy, Nilima, Art of Manipur, Agam Kala Prakashan, New Delhi, 1979.

This book gives a detailed description of the art of weaving of the people of Manipur. It not only talks about the technique of production but also about the weaving tools and implements and the designs and embroidery used in the weaving process. It also talks about the future of the weaving industry of manipur with the changing times and urbanization. The weaving process is made clearer with a number of illustrations.

2. Ganguli, Milada, Naga Art, New Delhi, Oxford & IBH

This book relates the art of weaving of the Nagas with their economic and social life in a brilliant manner. With the beautiful and numerous illustrations the variations in the weaving patterns and the dresses of the different communities and tribes of Nagaland is made clearer. This book has numerous illustrations.

3. The Arts and Crafts of Nagaland, Naga institute of Culture, Government of Nagaland, Kohima, 1968.

This book describes and illustrates the technical processes involved in the working of the Naga crafts and certain aspects of the art of Nagaland. This book deals with the spinning and the weaving process, including the dyeing and the painting of the cloth. It also talks about the designs and symbols used in the Naga textiles, which is a major characteristic of their position in the society. This book has good number of illustrations.

4. Bhavnani, Enakshi, Folk and Tribal designs of India, Taraporevala, Bombay, 1974.

This book has tried to describe some of the rarely seen and characteristic designs and motifs created by the tribes all over India. This gives an overall picture of the crafts of North- East India, and deals with the weaving crafts in detail. It helps us to have a clearer picture of the weaving processes of the people of Assam in particular. 

5. Barpujari, H.K. The comprehensive History of Assam. Vol V, Publication board of Assam, 1993.

This book talks in detail about the different varieties of Silk and cotton used by the weaving community of Assam and from where do they get they procure their raw material. It also speaks in detail about the economic side of the weaving industry i.e. how much the government and the local people earn through the industry. This book however lacks illustrations.

6. Nyori, Tai, History and Culture of the Adis, Omsons Publications, 1993.

This book describes a very interesting legend as to how waving was started among the Adis. It also narrates a song which describes how the cotton is grown, plucked, spun and how it is woven with cotton yarn in the loom. This book however lacks illustrations.

7. Panchani, Chandra Sheikhar, Arunachal Pradesh: Religion, Culture & society, Konark Publishers, New Delhi, 1989.

This book gives a brief outline of the weaving industry in Arunachal Pradesh. It not only speaks about the weaving technique but also speaks about the difference in designs and symbols depending on the difference in community and tribe. This book however lacks illustrations.

8. Panchani, Chandra Sheikhar, Manipur: Religion, Culture & society, Konark Publishers, New Delhi, 1987.

This book gives a brief account of the different weaving pattern amongst the Naga tribes of Manipur. It also gives a reference of the different types of cloth woven for different communities and tries to explain as to why there is a difference in the weaving patterns among the different tribes.

9. Chattopadhyay, Kamaladevi, The glory of Indian handicrafts, Indian book Company, Delhi, 1976.

This book gives a brief outline of the weaving techniques in manipur and Assam. It is a good book if one wishes to compare the weaving techniques and patterns in Northeast with the weaning methods used in rest of the Indian states. This book however lacks illustrations.

10. Saraf, D.N. Indian Crafts- Development and Potential, Vikas Publishing House, Delhi, 1982.

This book gives a brief description of the handloom and weaving industry of all the seven states of Northeast India. This can be a good reference for those who want to have an overall view of the weaving technology of Northeast India. This book gives a good comparison of the weaving industry of the whole of India.

11. Saraf, D.N. In the journey of Crafts development, (1941- 1991), Sampark Publishing house, Delhi, 1992.

This book traces the development of the craft of weaving from 1941 until 1991. It shows the different changes that have come about in the craft with time and its impact on the people and the reasons for this change. The book however lacks illustrations.

12. Elwin Verrier, The Art of Northeast Frontier of India, Northeast frontier agency, Shillong, 1959.

This book talks about the art of weaving in all the states of northeast India with beautiful illustrations. 

13. Hussain, Majid, Encyclopedia of India: Assam, Rima Publications, 1994.

This book speaks in detail about the handloom industry in Assam and it’s bearing on the economy. It gives the facts related to the industry; it deals with the various co-operatives and the boards that were set up to uplift the handloom industry of Assam. This book has a few illustrations.

14. Hussain, Majid, Encyclopedia of Northeast India: Arunachal Pradesh, Vol. I, Rima Publications, 1994.

This book talks in detail about the textile industry of Arunachal Pradesh. It refers to the difference in the material, texture, colours and designs among the different tribes. It also talks about the significance of a few important designs or patterns made on the cloth.

15. Hussain, Majid, Encyclopedia of India: Nagaland, Rima Publications, 1994.

It emphasizes on the spinning and the weaving method or technique used by the people of Nagaland. It also refers to the dyeing techniques and the painting of the cloth i.e. how the pigment is prepared for dyeing and much more. The book however does not have illustrations.

16. Crill, Rosemary, ‘Vaishnavite Silks: The figured textiles of Assam’ in The woven silks of Assam, Marg, Publication, 1998.

A detailed and a well illustrated essay, which talks about the Vaishnavite cult prevalent in Assam and its significance in the weaning industry. It also talks about the other figures, designs and themes depicted on the silk textiles of Assam. The article is well illustrated.

17. Dhamija Jasleen, ‘The Survey of Embroidery Traditions’ in Textiles and Embroideries of India, Mark Publications, Bombay, 1965.

This article can form a base and can give light reading on the different embroidery techniques and patterns used with beautiful illustrations, with reference to states of north east India 

18. Iyer D.S.V. ‘Looms’, in Textiles and Embroideries of India, Mark Publications, Bombay, 1965.

This article gives a general view of the different types of looms present in India with good illustrations. 

19. Mudaliar, M.P.Nachimuthu, ‘Manipur, Naga and Assam Fabrics’, in Textiles and Embroideries of India, Mark Publications, Bombay, 1965.

This article gives a clear picture of the textiles of manipur with reference to some legends and it discusses the different designs or patterns woven on different types of cloth. 

20. Hussain, Majid, N.S.Olaniya, Encyclopedia of India: Arunachal Pradesh & Mizoram, Rima Publications, 1994.

This book talks about the textile industry of Mizoram and Arunachal Pradesh. It talks about the symbolic meaning of the colours and designs used in the textiles, the kind of cloth used, and the social significance of this craft for the people of Mizoram and Arunachal Pradesh.

21. Ali, A. Yusuf, A monograph of Silk Fabrics, Allahbad, 1900.

An excellent book to have a general knowledge about the various terms related to weaving. It deals with the different kinds of looms and the different types of silk and how silk is prepared. It is a well-illustrated book. 

22. Indian textiles in the 20th century: Crisis in transformation, in 2000: Reflections on the arts of India, Marg publications, 2000.

This article talks about the transformation in the weaving and the textile industry in the 20th century, the reasons for this transformation, and the impact of this transformation. It talks about the weaving industry of northeast also. Te article is supported by few illustrations.

23. Barve, V.R. Complete textile encyclopedia, Russi Lal Publishers, Bombay, 1967.

This book deals with each term related with textile, right from the sowing of cotton to the production of the cloth in the final form. The same goes for silk and other materials. Some of the meanings are also explained through line drawings.

24. Naik, D. Shailaja, Folk embroidery and traditional Handloom weaving

This book talks in general about the terms related to weaving. This book can be used as base book to have general idea of the methods of weaving, the weaving tools and implements and other terms related to weaving. This book has a few line drawings and a few illustrations to help make the text clear.

25. Handlooms of India, Weavers Service Center.

Through this book, an attempt has been made for the first time to indicate the different types of handlooms that exist in this vast country. There are a few line drawings and photographs, which support the written material.

26. Baldinger, Annemarie, Seiler, Classification of Textile Techniques, Calico Museum of Textiles, Ahemdabad, 1979.

This book gives a detailed look at the basic terms related to weaving i.e. different types of looms, techniques of thread production, and techniques of Fabric production.

27. Askari Nasreen, Liz Arthur, Uncut Cloth, Merrell Holbert Publishers, London, 1999.

This book talks about the Saris and shawls produced in the northeastern region especially in Assam and Tripura with excellent illustrations. It also talks bout the other states of India giving a good comparative study.

28. Philipa Scott, The book Of Silk, Thames and Hudson ltd, 1993.

It talks about the origin of the silk. In the Indian variety of silk, it talks about the Assamese variety of silk with some rare pieces kept in the collections of certain foreign museums. Apart from this, it gives a list of the museum world over which hold any piece of Assamese silk in their collection.

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